2021 Adejo Coop The Society’s Vinho Verde Albarino (£6.95, Wine Society)

Slight spritz, very lively, high acidity but no “greeness”, fresh grapefruit and a lot more structure than I expected. Wonderful with mackerel pate. Wonderful value.

2021 Alvarinho Adega de Moncao e Melgaco Vinho Verde (Waitrose Cellar, £12.99)

Very much like a Spanish Albarino (it’s the same grape!) Vineyard is on the Minho River, this made with much riper grapes, almost roses on the nose, quite rich and full. Really gorgeous mouthfill, great with chilli prawns.

2018 Encruzado Ribeiro Santo, DAO DOC (Wine Society £12.50)

Totally different from the first two wines less on the nose, deep mineral on the palate, rich and weighty. Grown at high altitude with cold nights, made from the Encruzado grape, reminiscent of a Chardonnay especially with the slight oak.

2018 Entre Serra, Almeida Garrett, Beira Interior (Wine Society £6.50)

Dark red, very aromatic and slightly rich on the palate, fresh berry fruit and no sign of “stewed”, high acidity and modest tannins, made from Tinto Roriz a.k.a.Tempranillo with other indigenous grapes including Trincadeiro. Renarkable value for a very good quaffer.

2016 Quinta do Escudial Reserva Old Vines Unspecified (Wine Society £14.50)

From a mountainous vineyard, hot days and cold nights, this wine spent no time in barrel. Gentle and soft on nose and palate, main grape is Touriga Nacional, and very likeable wine with enough structure to carry the fruit. NOte that Touriga Nacional is now a permitted Bordeaux grape (wonder what they will call it!)

2017 Esparoa Reserva Old Vines Unspecified (Wine Society £16.50)

This is from a hot vineyard, a distinct touch of New World character, could almost be a Barossa, lost of grip and more balancing acidity than you would exact for an Aussie. Grape blend not noted, suggest a field blend. Big at 14.5% but balanced.

2018 Vertente Niepoort, Douro DOC (Wine Society £21.50)

From very old (60-70yrs) port vines lovely rich palate, wonderful with pork and clams. Grown on schist on the ridiculous Douro Valley slopes. A real treat.