Tasting notes: Alsace Wine Tasting – presented by Nina Cerullo, 24 January 2024

Our first tasting of the New Year and what a start to 2024 with our highest attendance for a long time! Nina is one of our favourite presenters and she gave us a real insight into the wine culture of Alsace, which even those several members who have visited the area would have barely appreciated. The popularity of Alsace wines in the UK, which are not generally inexpensive, is growing and their winemakers and regulators are doing some exciting things to supply this demand. This, and an understanding of the relationship between Alsatian wine, their rich cuisine and the impact of terroir is the background against which we were treated to some lovely wines.

1. NV Cave de Turkheim Cremant d’Alsace –

made from Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris from the lower ground vineyards, these Cremant wines are wonderful value. This wine had a lovely light, slightly flowery nose, creamy bubbles and a touch of citrus on the palate and really delicious, just a hint of residual sugar, very competitive with a light NV champagne at a fraction of the price. (Waitrose £14.99, currently on offer at £9.99)

2. 2022 Joseph Cattin Special Cuvee Edelzwicker –

an unusual blend of Muscat, Pinot Gris, Gewurtztraminer and Riesling, quite a deep yellow with a rich and slightly rustic nose, notes of quince and stewed white fruit on the slightly sweet palate, a somewhat old-fashioned style but delicious nevertheless. Amazing value once again at £9.95 (Wine Society)

3. 2020 Wolfberger Pinot Blanc –

noting that “Pinot Blanc” in Alsace can cover ANY Pinot white wine, not just from the eponymous grape, a near-bone dry palate with hints of spice and excellent acidity and good mouthfeel – would make a pleasant aperitif. (Wine Society £11.49)

4. 2022 Joseph Cattin Pinot Noir –

plantings of PN are increasing in Alsace and one can see why with this example. A deep purple rim and quite deeply coloured with a rich New World-style nose, could easily be mistaken for an Oregon PN, low tannins and utterly unlike the Burgundian style. Delicious if a little one-dimensional and great value at £9.95 (Wine Society)

5. 2019 Zind Humbfrecht Pinot Gris Roche Calcaire –

grown in the calcareous soil it prefers, this is a classic young Pinot Gris, slightly pinkish tint with lovely acidity to balance out the emerging richness. Seriously long on the palate, hints of tangerine and kumquat with balancing citrus in the background. Would benefit from several years cellaring. (£21, Wine Society)

6. 2019 Paul Blanc Riesling Grand Cru Furstentum –

quite unlike most styles of Riesling, just a smidgen of petrol on the nose, typical citrus tang but really rich as well, huge mouthfeel and very long with just a tiny touch of sweetness and a hint of smoke. Very intriguing wine. (£27.99, Wine Society)

7. 2020 Schlumberger Pinot Gris Grand Cru Speigel –

more typical rich and honeyed style of Pinot Gris, some residual sugar, rated off-dry, and lower acidity than the Zind Humbrecht. For me, needs some years in the cellar, it is maybe in a dumb phase right now. (£16.99, Majestic)

8. 2015 Gewurtztraminer Grossi Laue Hugel Grand Cru Sporen –

great and very characteristic nose of lychee, Nina reckoned Turkish Delight. Lovely mineral backbone and balanced acidity to hold this rich wine together. Complex but not over the top as some Gewurtztraminers can be, a glorious wine. (£36, Wine Society)