Tasting notes: “A fresh look at the wines of Greece” – presented by Christos Ioannou AWE, 23 February 2022

The whites:

  1. Akriotou ‘Orivatis’ Old Vine Savatiano, Sterea Ellada 2019, £10.99 from All about Wine
    This is the main Retsina grape but no resin here! Light on the palate, slightly flowery and low acidity which grows on you. Slightly saline and flavours of lemon and grapefruit, very quaffable
  2. Idaia Vidiano, Dafnes Crete 2020 £14.29 from All about Wine
    Deep yellow with a somewhat shy nose. On the palate quite rich with a touch of raisin flavour, reminding me of Malvasia wines from the Canaries. From young vines, first vintage in 2000, a big winery that grows 13 indigenous grapes, Vidiano being one of them.
  3. Ktima Gerovassiliou Malagousia, Epanomi 2020, £15.79 from All about Wine
    Rich nose, floral, peaches, herbs. Palate very rich with a sweet-sour element, almost heading towards a dessert wine. Very strong personality, not shy and retiring. A proportion of the blend aged in oak, a touch of “forest floor” on the nose. A serious wine.
  4. Gaia Wild Ferment Assyrtiko Santorini 2020 £27.99 from All about Wine
    Complex process for a complex wine, from the unique viticulture of Santorini. Fermented 45% in stainless steel, 45% in 1/3 US oak, 1/3 French Oak and 1/3 acacia, 10% in ceramic then aged on the lees before bottling. Gentle oak on the nose, delightful mouthfeel and lovely texture, rich with complex mid-palate and very long, a remarkable wine.

The Reds:

  1. Manolesakis ‘Exis’ Red (Moschomavro 55%/Limnio 45%), Drama 2020 £11.49 from All about Wine
    Newish winery (1999) not far from Bulgarian border. Clay/limestone soil. A pale red (“clairette” style), almost a rose. Quite acidic on the palate, fresh and light, shades of Gamay, would have been better chilled. Initial impression is slightly “cherryade” in character but better longer in the mouth. Improved with air.
  2. Alpha Estate Xinomavro Reserve Old Vines Single Block Barbayiannis, Amyndeo 2017 £19.99 from All about Wine
    High vineyard (600m) in Naoussa with NW exposure, cold and wet in winter. Vines planted in 1919, wild ferment and left on the lees 24 months in lightly toasted oak. Touch of “bottle stink” that dissipated in the glass, very smooth tannins and a touch of dark chocolate and tobacco on the palate.
  3. Gerovassiliou Avaton (Limnio/Mavrotragano/Mavroudi), Epanomi 2017 £18.49 from All about Wine
    Deeply red-black with ripe black fruits on the nose, quite a strong mineral finish. Tannins overcome the more subtle elements, wine needs bottle age, oak not yet in balance, potentially a serious wine but needs time, this was too young
  4. Gaia Estate Nemea (Agiorgitiko) 2017 £29.49 from All about Wine
    The “are you good to go” grape! A lovely wine from 40-year old vines at 500m, red and black fruit nose with a touch of cedar, slight green pepper, butterscotch and, to me, green bracken. Aged 20 months in mostly new oak, no fining. Very complex, very long on the palate, very good indeed.